Worth stating again perhaps that no judgments on fit should be made from photos. Id always recommend that you stick to a tailors house style as much as possible. Hi Richard Coat Details Fabric Pattern: Solid. Apologies if these are ignorant questions, but this will be my first foray into bespoke (thanks to the amazing information youve provided on this website)! What am I missing? I understand none of the cutters will come on this trip but Bob will be present for the initial consultation and measurement. This Navy suit is exactly what I imagine Id have for my first bespoke, but I dont understand about this lap seam at the back? Even in todays culture of instant gratification, a large majority of the worlds best-dressed men still go to the effort and expense of having their clothes custom-made. Among many others, it is known for the large number of ateliers located on it, Read More. Simon. Being at ease doing this is why people talk a lot about the importance of relationship in bespoke too. They seem stylistically similar (soft w some drape), and affordable. Customers are measured and fitted in London by our cutter who cuts the pattern in London. I like traditional and full, not modern and sleek. Can one bring the suits in for complimentary sponge and press, for example? At this stage of your life, I wouldnt stretch to one of the others. Very best. Cheers. The feeling I got when discussing some of these details with the team at W&S was one of denial of some of the problems. And either no pattern of just a small one in the weave like Birdseye or pick and pick, or herringbone. Theyre reasonably flexible, but I wouldnt ask them to do Neapolitan. I will take your advice and go with Whitcomb then. And I would also sound a general warning that getting a satisfying result when asking a cutter to do a different style than what theyre used to is very hard. Wempe Teamed Up With Boatbuilder Tim Heywood to Make Two Limited-Edition Marine Chronometers, Rimowa Unveils a New, More Organized Pilot Case for Your Next Short-Haul Trip, The Best-Dressed Men of the SAG Awards, From Eddie Redmayne to Austin Butler. Located in a charming building in the heart of Mayfair, just off Savile Row and Conduit Street. 1. Have a search for them on the blog and read all the background. A little drape like Henry Poole uses is fine, but not more. Used to work with John at Kilgour, then at Thom Sweeney and at McQueen for a bit, So I presume you would have no hesitation in using W&S even if you were not working with John McCabe, Would you recommend W&S for a relaxed soft shouldered cashmere jacket to be worn with chinos and jeans? hi Simon, very interesting article. Thanks for your blog Simon! This is the process by which my suit was also made. how many weeks from measuring to first fitting, from first fitting to second fitting, etc. Equally, as Im probably going to take the leap, if youd like any feedback from me on it, Id be more than happy to share. Good suits can look terrible; bad ones good. I tried them at home but was not convinced, so i went back in and saw a third fitter (not sure where they get people from when John is not available) who agreed they were too baggy, and alterations were appropriately made. Photography: Jack Lawson. I guess this is relevant to the greatest number of people in the context of a bespoke suit, and it would great to know what are the key points that should be thought about (choice of cloth etc.). How are the characters hobbies evidence of their social class. Thanks Simon, The reality seems to be that you must thoroughly educate yourself regarding manufacture and design points, and have a clear sense for what you want, in order to get the most out of the process. First fitting was very compromised. Pinterest. (Living in Paris and only going from time to time to London, difficult to sync with the neapolitan tailors). They opened first in Brunswick Square, in 1806, originally specialising in military tailoring, with particular merit at the time of the Battle of Waterloo. Im looking at getting a first sportsjacket for casual wear made but the justification of 1500 for one despite the longetivity is negative. Would Rubinacci London do the trick better than Russell at Graham Browne, with whom Ive already had one rushed suit made in the past? Some advice if you would; Im looking to get a suit (tan cord) garment dyed thinking blue, dark green or dark grey (not to be worn for work). Subscribe to RR1 Live+ for exclusive virtual events all year long (at least 1 per month), conversations with Robb Report editors, special perks, and more. We decided to offer a hand-tailoring scheme, so John [McCabe] flew out to India and began to train local craftspeople to a Savile Row standard., The author in his corduroy suit and Donegal overcoat commissioned from Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury RAF-blue suit: Style . Touch device users can explore by touch or with swipe gestures. Looks like ink blue solid from H&S classic worsted? Their business has actually been going for a few years enough to train up that whole Indian workshop without much exposure at all. I agree building a relationship is a big part of it, yes. I certainly couldnt see it in any of the fittings but its the exact same thing with both tailors. Simon, Perhaps try Graham Browne. I would estimate 9cm but if you get a chance to measure it I would be grateful. Just focusing on the big-name tailors and dominant styles to start with. Solito, Dalcuore, Caliendo and Rubinacci (in ascending order of price! What are your thoughts on Huntsman 100 (I think thats what its called right) anyway? 829 posts. I think there is often a risk with bespoke that people expect perfection, and everything to have been considered for them, when it is more interactive, and does have most benefits over time. As this can take a year or so? It sounds like it might also be due to the fact that this was your first experience. I am a long time reader of your blog, and I am delighted to say that I am going to be getting my first bespoke suit this fall from W&S based on your review. By the way, Sian is the other cutter at Whitcomb now, and is very good in my experience. Bravo! Is sufficient to have the master coatmaker in the fittings or you absolutely need to see the cutter? Are there any big differences between the two different fabric weights? Whitcomb & Shaftesbury Artisanal Bespoke The Whitcomb & Shaftesbury suit epitomises the idea of slow fashion, a backlash against the disposable trends of recent years. The little things are not decisive, they decide everything, said the popular actor Harvey Read More, A Detailed Guide to Savile Row suit for Men The company with more than 200 years of history began as a uniform company for the military. And in your opinion would a soft jacket from W&S be suitable to wear with relaxed chinos and jeans? I mentioned it as a collar gap to Zizolfi after the first one and we thought we had resolved it at the fitting but when I wore it a couple of times, I saw the same issue again. (And which?). As bespoke is new to me, for both pieces i did my best to educate myself beforehand, but naturally must rely on the experience of the service provider. Just what Im looking for. Thanks Chris, thats always helpful, and yes absolutely, aware of how beneficial it would be. Have you read my post on the margins of bespoke generally? Ultimately, the tailor will be chosen to suit my budget. How do you find out whether a certain off row tailor is really good? . ), Thanks for the recommendation of the neapolitan tailors. No worries Ravi. That means someone has taken measurements of your body and then adjusted the clothes to fit those measurements. Simon, Size given is an estimate. Once your account is created, you'll be logged-in to this account. Thank you for your help and the great website. She corrected my trousers and identified there was an issue straight away. This is something most tailors dont do, but you do occasionally see it used on particularly soft or lightweight cloths. It gets made for a lot of weddings. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury is based on George Street in Mayfair, just a few paces from Savile Row, and offers two bespoke services: its Savile Row Bespoke service, which is made in the conventional fashion in on-site workrooms, and Classic Bespoke, which is cut in London and made in the brand's workshop in Chennai, India. Simon. Here Are 5 You Should Know, and Where to Find Them. Thats where John worked until 2010, and it is still his style. The extra trousers came in at around 350, I believe (I saw a post below about this). I will do something longer on his system though, so I can give as many details as possible. And it would look a touch more formal than a Neapolitan, but as long as youre happy with that (and my Gieves is similar in cut) then that would work fine. Through that program, weve rehabilitated over 7,000 women, says Suresh. I always try and relax and dont rush my fittings. Like this article? To commission a bespoke suit is the epitome of sartorial luxury. My experience not so good. I particularly like the drama of Edward Sexton cuts in subtle fabrics, similar to your grey flannel suit. The biggest danger is when you get to structural things (eg shoulders) or things that arent linear and therefore easy to describe (eg the shape of a lapel). I look forward to reading about your experience in the near future. I am happy to share my experience/pictures in 4-5 weeks when it is complete, if it is helpful? Here is a simple way to think about it. I remember you recommending MTM for those building a trouser wardrobe, but im not sure if this company would follows ideal fit, considering they outsource their labor and the cutter is not in consultation with you. Classic bespoke, single breast in Minnis grey wool cloth 12/13oz. For sewing the shirt you can choose the following fabrics: poplin, jacquard, oxford, twill, pinpoint or herringbone. I question, upon reflection, if you can go to Spain and Italy (and India via W & S) might we see a time when you take into consideration the many fine UK tailors at points outside of London. Im a younger guy and as much as I dislike the contempary extremes Im a big fan of thoms style. The same business model doesnt quite exist, no. What I also find interesting and perhaps would be an interesting point of discussion with a tailor is that even though my right shoulder drops, I dont think my right armhole should be lower. Tim Everest offered a 10/11oz super 120 fabric for 1450+VAT with full canvas and extra trousers done in six weeks at a factory in Czech. Thanks and all the best, Michael. I think theyd certainly do a very good job. Though no, its a noticeable but not huge difference to go for 11oz rather than 13oz, I have suits in both. Im afraid its still some way off those at least in terms of finishing. Thanks Simon. I had suits made in both, in order to compare them. Looking forward to know your thoughts. Its not the end of the world, but it certainly bugs me to face an issue which I did not face with RTW- a collar gap. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, Whitcomb & Shaftesbury is based on George Street in Mayfair, just a few paces from Savile Row, and offers two bespoke services: its Savile Row Bespoke service, which is made in the conventional fashion in on-site workrooms, and Classic Bespoke, which is cut in London and made in the brands workshop in Chennai, India. I hesitate to say Whitcomb have done something wrong, as my experience and that of others has been so good, but that sounds like the most likely conclusion. Any thoughts as to where I might find one? Yes, Edward is more dramatic and youll find the drape style more comfortable during the day at work too. Insisting on something still identifiable as W & S, bearing Bob and Johns beautiful fingerprints but of much softer construction, I was reassured with confidence by Suresh. 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